Mammoth Mountain glows in the warm reflection of a small lake at sunrise.

 

 

Yosemite May Be The Nation’s Crown Jewel of National Parks, But If You Look In Its Shadow You’ll Find a Mammoth Gem

Photographs & Story by ©Todd Bigelow/Contact Press Images.

Images registered  with US Copyright Office. For licensing, please contact info [at] ToddBigelowPhotography [dot] com

Shadows from Yosemite fall across Tioga Pass, 35 miles from Mammoth and the only entrance into the national park from the eastern Sierras.

It’s tough growing up in the shadow of a legend. To millions of Americans, Yosemite is a household name that evokes visions of grand monoliths, beautiful waterfalls and Aspens aglow in the fall amid endless hiking trails and jaw dropping landscapes. Then there’s Mammoth Lakes, situated in the shadow of Yosemite, which lacks national name recognition despite sharing much of the same awe inspiring wilderness with its far more famous neighbor. 

To get to Yosemite, visitors enter from any one of five locations. Four are situated on the western side of the Yosemite (the park is so large it spans the Sierra Nevada range) and one is on the eastern side along Tioga Pass. The vast majority of park visitors opt for the west entrances that offer almost immediate access to the legendary El Capitan, Half Dome, Yosemite Falls and Yosemite Valley, but those who choose the far less crowded eastern entrance usually drive right by the single offramp for Mammoth Lakes.

Although Mammoth is quite literally next door to Yosemite, its location on the eastern side of the Sierras makes it the premier alternative to an often congested Yosemite while offering an outdoor playground comprised of meandering trails to alpine lakes and cascading waterfalls. Locals and long time visitors to Mammoth are more than happy to let their famous neighbor draw the hordes with its bright national spotlight while quietly navigating the beauty of the eastern Sierras.

Mammoth was incorporated in 1984, ninety-four years after Yosemite was born. Its majestic mountain and pristine beauty began drawing visitors and famous researchers such as John Muir and Ansel Adams nearly a half-century before incorporation when Dave McCoy, a bit of a hell raiser from the Los Angeles area who’s considered the founder of Mammoth Mountain, rigged a rope to his car in 1937 and started charging skiers 50 cents to be towed up the snowy slopes. McCoy, who died in 2020 at the age of 104 after living nearly his entire life in the eastern Sierras, saw the potential to develop the area into a destination to challenge Yosemite’s grandeur. He succeeded beyond expectations. 

At its core, Mammoth is a quiet blue collar town where residents are far less interested in fame and far more interested in enjoying the mountains to the fullest extent possible. It’s where locals work two or three jobs, where a blizzard is an opportunity, not a storm to avoid, and where summer thunderstorms are embraced for their replenishing power and jaw-dropping sunsets. Truth is, Mammoth openly welcomes visitors drawn to its beauty and world class outdoor adventures because it provides financial stability for the small community,  but avoiding the national notoriety that leads to overcrowded hiking trails and trout fishing streams is just fine too. 

The Sierras has long beckoned photographers harking back to the legend Ansel Adams himself who called called the Sierra Nevada mountains home. It’s hardly uncommon to see hikers today with tripods strapped to their packs en route to Duck Lake, tiptoeing around Agnew Meadow’s wildflowers or setting-up to capture a rainbow emanating from Rainbow Falls. No matter how many times photographers (myself included) have ventured out for a photo along trails traveled for generations, they never really see the Aspens in their fiery glow, or the pristine lakes with native trout tickling the surface, the same way. The light is different, a storm’s moving through, the wildflowers are blooming or the reflection in the still water is like a mirror. It’s always changing, always new. 

The bonus of Mammoth’s location is the ability to actually visit Yosemite via the eastern entrance for a couple hours while avoiding the crush of tourists on the west side. It’s a easy 40 minute drive from Mammoth up Tioga Pass that offers an amazing view of nearby Mono Lake and, if driven in late September through mid October, a landscape chock full of fall colors that defy words and will slow your trip down considerably as you pull over for photos. Just be sure to check the Yosemite website for entrance restrictions because regardless of where you enter the park or for how long, advance reservations are often required. Rest assured the eastern, upper elevation of Yosemite accessible only minutes from Mammoth is gorgeous with meandering trails and granite outcroppings, so if your heart is set on Yosemite, you can be in Tuolumne Meadows with views of Lembert Dome and hiking galore while staying a short distance away in Mammoth. It’s that close.

Unfortunately, the Sierra Nevada has seen the impact of climate change and Mammoth is no exception. Like a yo-yo, the area has gone from devastating droughts to all time record snowfalls and back to extreme drought and fires in the manner of just a few years. Lakes that only a few years ago were full are now mere puddles in comparison and often shrouded in smokey light as the ever present wildfires wreak havoc annually on the Inyo National Forest.

I’ve been fortunate to call Mammoth my second home after forty years of visiting the eastern Sierras. I’ve hiked, fished, kayaked, climbed, biked, snowboarded and taken in complete silence amid the towering trees. It’s all the splendor of Yosemite without the crowds. Below are a few examples of what I’ve come across while navigating the region with camera in hand.

Fall colors frame a bridge over the Twin Lakes in Mammoth on a chilly, Fall day in October, 2021.

A picturesque view of Mammoth Mountain after sunset.

A grove of Aspens line Mammoth Creek as the sun sets on the Sherwin Range.

A cross country skier treks through a blizzard with her dogs in Mammoth.

A fisherman finds peace along a section of the Upper Owens River with Mammoth as a backdrop as the sun rises over the Eastern Sierras.

A hawk glides by a young fisherman along the Owens River.

Colorful sunsets in Mammoth are a nightly entertainment option. A couple looks toward Yosemite National Park 35 miles to the west.

Fourth of July parade down one of the town’s two main roads.

A hiker on the Duck Pass Trail with Mammoth Mountain in the background. The trail winds past alpine lakes and meadows within the John Muir Wilderness.

Deer, like this one in July, 2021, are common sites on the trails and throughout town in Mammoth.

Winter scene as a storm sets in to Mammoth Lakes, California.

Deer foraging in a meadow in town.

Kiteboarding in Mammoth.

Mammoth Rock, a slab of granite, on a summer sunrise in July, 2021 in Mammoth Lakes, CA.

Late afternoon storm drops rain over Benton Crossing Road in Mammoth.

A black bear wanders near Lake Mary in Mammoth.

Rainbow Falls, located in Reds Meadow, part of the Ansel Adams Wilderness, in Mammoth.

Mammoth Mountain looks over small federal wetland in the heart of town.

Lower Rainbow Falls, not far from Rainbow Falls (above) is a great hike that leads to a pool.

Kayaking June Lake, just up US 395 from Mammoth during a warm summer day.

Catching and releasing a Rainbow trout from the Upper Owens River.

Smoke from the giant KNP wildfire in the southern section of the Sierras drifts into the Eastern Sierras over Convict Lake.

A late afternoon thunderstorm drops much needed precipitation on Horseshoe Lake that has shrunk to precarious levels in July, 2021 due to a prolonged drought. 

Dead and dying trees are increasingly visible throughout Mammoth Lakes and the Inyo National Forest.

Although somewhat rare in the Eastern Sierras, Bighorn sheep roam the rocky crags and hikers are asked to report their locations if sighted.

Lembert Dome may not be as famous as Half Dome, but it’s easily accessed from Mammoth & far less crowded than Yosemite’s more famous landmarks.

 



Todd  has spent much of his life taking his Subaru up to the Eastern Sierras to hike, fish, kayak, snowboard, photograph and otherwise explore Mammoth Lakes. His love of the Sierras and Mammoth was solidified when he borrowed his parent’s Ford LTD station wagon upon graduation from high school and camped his way for weeks down the Sierras from Lake Tahoe to Bishop. His favorite hike is the one he’s on, but he’s partial to the Duck Lake hike. His work from Mammoth has appeared in National Geographic Traveler, AARP and Sports Illustrated. He’s a contributing photographer to Contact Press Images. All photographs ©Todd Bigelow. 

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